General considerations -
In any radio communications system, the antenna, feedline, jumpers
and connectors [Antenna System] are the most important elements.
Mainly, because the antenna system can deteriorate over time, with
little notice until the system only operates marginally. This is
particularly true with the master station, as it impacts all remote
station communications. This is why we recommend using only the
very best antenna and Heliax cable at the master station.
Generally, the health of the remote stations can be monitored
by the master by reviewing & maintaining
records of the Receiver Signal Strength Indicator [RSSI] levels, and
any changes over time. Also, some indication of the master can also be
noticed by reviewing RSSI trends that are shared with ALL remote
stations. Fore example, if over a year 6 of 22 stations show a decline
in RSSI, then it is likely the remotes are at fault. If all 22 stations
show an almost identical decline in RSSI, then I would check the master
antenna system.
Typical Problem -
You would not believe this unless you witness it yourself, but two
drops of water inside a coax connector is all that is necessary to
partially or completely disable a radio link at any frequency, but
particularly at 900 MHz. or higher. The most common
problems with station antennas are moisture intrusion, excessive
feedline loss, shorted/open connections at a coax connector, and
broken connectors or bad jumpers, in that order.
1. Moisture Intrusion
can occur at the antenna, through the feedline/cable jacket, or at a
connector. Inexpensive or poorly designed antennas will allow
outside air to enter the interior of the antenna, and with the thermal
shift of night to day and day to night the moisture in the air
condensates, and accumulates. If the connector is on the bottom of
the antenna, the moisture will accumulate and eventually enter the
connector through the center pin opening, causing partial or complete
system failure. The most common problem area for moisture is
within the outdoor connectors, at the base of the antenna, or
where the flexible jumper meets the Heliax cable. This issue is
so important, we have dedicated an entire page [HERE]
describing the different methods commonly used to weatherproof the
connectors. Just remember, you need to weather seal and provide
thermal resistance, so the connector cannot form condensation inside.
All it takes is 1 to 3 drops of water to take your system from full
performance to just barely working.
2. Excessive Feedline Loss
occurs mostly with coaxial cables with a braided shield under the
outside plastic jacket, like RG-8, LMR400, unlike the solid copper
shield used with Heliax type cables. What typically occurs over time is a
small amount of outside air enters the space between the outside jacket
and the center insulator, where the wire braid resides. This can
occur through the jacket, or at either end. This air [with
moisture] will over time corrode the individual strands of wire causing
them to become insulated and lose conductivity with the other strands
of wire. Even cable like LMR400 with an aluminum foil under the
wire shield is no better as the aluminum is either coated or corrodes
at a faster rate than the wires. In addition, the center insulator is
often times a low-loss foam, which will absorb moisture and any
mineral in the moisture. This contamination over time will cause
changes in loss and impedance of the cable, which adds to the
overall cable loss. Manufacturers of braided cable suggest the useful
life is only 5 to 8 years, depending upon weather and exposure.
It is clear to see why Heliax cable is superior, as it uses a
solid copper shield and many installation have lasted more than 40
years. The cable TV industry has used coaxial cable with a solid
aluminum shield like Heliax for 50 years with great success.
However, in the land mobile industry, aluminum shielded cable has
be largely rejected due to the soft aluminum causing connectors to
become loose or short, and cause an intermittent connection.
3. Shorted/Open Connectors
usually occur from improper assembly or bending the cable too close to
the connector. Even Heliax cables have issues with connectors
failing. It is not unusual for a Heliax connector to short if the cable
is bent too close to the connector body. The Heliax cable MUST
REMAIN STRAIGHT for at least 6 inches, measured from the back of the
connector. This is why it is not recommended to connect the
Heliax directly to the antenna, but use a 16" flexible jumper to
connect the two. Tower climbers and installers may inadvertently
shift or bend a Heliax cable, while moving about on a tower. This
is enough to short a Heliax connector attached directly to an antenna.
The reason this occurs is the center conductor is stiffer than
the outside copper shield, so when the jacket is bent close to the
connector, the center conductor bends the center pin assembly sideways
and it shorts against the inside shell.
Coaxial cables with
stranded shields should use high quality crimp connectors purchased
directly from master distributors like Tessco, Talley Communications,
and Mouser. We prefer the SILVER-PLATED connectors made by RF
Industries.
4. Broken Connectors or Bad Jumpers -
Avoid broken connectors by using short [12" to 24"] flexible
jumper cables between your MAS radio and your feedline. We like using
the smaller RG-55, RG-142, OR RG-58 coax cable for indoor use, in that
order. We suggest using crimp connectors always, for higher
reliability. Otherwise, if you connect your LMR400 [1/2"] cable
directly to the radio, you risk breaking off the connector on the
radio. At the antenna or other outdoor use, we suggest using
RG-214 for short jumpers. This is a higher quality cable than
LMR400, and has significantly more attenuation, but for short lengths
is far more rugged and reliable. Keep a few spare indoor jumpers
around for testing, should you suspect a problem with a cable.
From the Start - Following is a simple outline to follow when you first decide to design a MAS system.
1. The operating radius must be determined from the master station. If all
of your remote stations are in one general direction from the master,
then a bi-directional antenna should be selected, to concentrate the
signal in that direction and to reject possible interference from the
undesired direction. However, most master stations require a
"Omni-directional' antenna, as remotes are scattered in all directions.
2. If the master is on a hill or a mountain, and all remote stations are
in the area below, then an antenna with "Down-Tilt" or sometimes called
"Null-Fill" may be required. Generally, this is not an issue unless the
master station antenna is looking down more than 3 degrees to the majority
of the remote stations. If this is the case, a Radio Frequency
consultant should study the issue and suggest the best antenna for your
unique application. Otherwise, the standard antenna that concentrates all the signal at the horizon is the best
choice.
3. The
height of the master antenna should be determined. If the master
station is to operate in an area with trees, then the base of the
antenna needs to be installed at least 20 feet above all trees, as any
foliage will absorb both incoming and outgoing signal. Typically, the
antenna would be mounted on a galvanized steel tower about 12 inches
wide on each side, at the proper height. If the master station
location is in an area sensitive to the appearance of a small tower,
then the use of a monopole [like a flagpole] might be a better
selection.
4. The antenna gain should be determined. If
all of your remote stations are within 5 miles and the terrain is
reasonably flat, the I would suggest a 3 or 4 dB gain antenna, only
about 4 ft high. However, if you have even just a few remotes beyond
the 5 mile radius, or one or more remotes in difficult terrain, then I
would suggest a 10 dB gain antenna. This antenna will be 14 to 16 ft
high, but will increase all inbound and outbound signal be 6 dB, or a
factor of 4 to 1 improvement. The cost for the larger antenna can be 4 to 8 times greater that the smaller antenna.
5.
The final consideration will be the size and makeup of the coaxial
cable, often called the feedline. Heliax type cable is
always the best choice, but it is not very flexible, and short flexible
jumper cables at each end is highly recommended. For short runs
[under 50 ft] of cable at remote sites, flexible braided shield cables
such as LMR400 is a good choice. It will not last as long as
Heliax, but is far easier to install and the need for a jumper at the
antenna is eliminated.
There are
More to come!